Acne Information
and Treatment

Glycolic Acid & Acne

Glycolic acid is an organic, alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) extracted from sugar cane.[5] Known as "fruit acids," alpha hydroxy acids also include lactic, malic, citric, and tartaric acid.[5] However, today, most alpha-hydroxy acids used in cosmetic products are chemically synthesized.[9]

Glycolic acid is basically an exfoliant. It's known for its "desquamating" properties, meaning it causes shedding of the outer layers of the skin.[8] It affects acne by reducing skin cell cohesion, preventing keratin cell plugging, and interfering with the process by which sebum and bacteria become entrapped within the skin.[1] It's general action is to keep pores/sebaceous follicles from clogging.[1]

Glycolic acid's effectiveness as an exfoliant also makes it useful for breaking down existing acne lesions.[4] It has further been found to have the positive effect of reducing hyperpigmentation and scarring associated with inflammatory acne.[6] Additionally, it has been reported that glycolic acid reduces the overall severity of photodamage to the skin.[7]

Glycolic acid is known be a keratolytic agent (inhibits buildup of keratin cells in skin that can clog pores) at concentrations of 5-to-10 percent.[2] It is also commonly used in chemical peels at higher concentrations.[1] It has been found to have a positive effect on atrophic acne scarring(these are the scars that leave the pitted or cratered look on the skin's surface, commonly on the cheeks) at both lower and higher concentrations, with higher concentrations having a more profound effect.[10]

Because of its ability to penetrate the sebaceous follicles/pores, glycolic acid may be useful in combination with other acne treatments, helping those other treatments penetrate the skin.[3] When used in combination with other acne medications, glycolic acid may also increase the speed at which the other medications' positive effects are realized.[3]

1. Kessler E, Flanagan K, Chia C, Rogers C, Glaser, DA. Comparison of α- and β-Hydroxy Acid Chemical Peels in the Treatment of Mild to Moderately Severe Facial Acne Vulgaris. Dermatol Surg. 2008;34:45-51.
2. Poli F, Ribet V, Lauze C, Adhoute H, Morinet P. Efficacy and Safety of 0.1% Retinaldehyde/6% Glycolic Acid(Diacneal®) for Mild to Moderate Acne vulgaris. Dermatology. 2005;210(supple 1):14-21.
3. Spellman MC, Pincus SH. Efficacy and Safety of Azelaic Acid and Glycolic Acid Combination Therapy Compared with Tretinoin Therapy for Acne. Clinical Therapeutics. 1998;29(4):711-721.
4. Atzori L, Brundo MA, Orru A, Biggio P. Glycolic Acid peeling in the treatment of acne. J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol. 1999;12;119-22.
5. Kim SW, Moon SE, Kim JA, Eun HC. Glycolic Acid versus Jessner's Solution: Which is Better for Facial Acne Patients. Dermatol Surg. 1999;25:270-73.
6. Grover C, Reddue BS. The therapeutic value of glycolic acid peels in dermatology. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2003;69:148-50.
7. Rendl M, Mayer C, Wenigner W, Tschachler E. Topically applied lactic acid increases spontaneous secretion of vascular endothelial growth factor by human reconstructed epidermis. Br J of Derm. 2001;145:3-9.
8. Horikoshi T, Matsumoto M, Usuki A, Igarashi S, Hikimi R, Uchiwa H, Hayashi S, Brysk MM, Ichihashi M, Funasaka Y. Effects of glycolic acid on desquamation-regulating proteinases in human stratum corneum. Exp Dermatol. 2005;14:34-30.
9. Tung RC, Bergfeld WF, Vidimos AT, Remzi BK. α-Hydroxy Acid-Based Cosmetic Procedures. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2000;1(2):81-88.
10. Erbagci, Z, Akcali C. Biweekly serial glycolic acid peels vs. long-term daily use of topical low-strength glycolic acid in the treatment of atrophic acne scars. International Journal of Dermatology. 2000;39:789-94.